Why read the INCI ingredient list on the back of labels? It's incomprehensible!!!
At first glance, the INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) list on the back of cosmetic products can seem daunting. Long words, in Latin or English, that don't resemble anything familiar... Why put yourself through that?
Because it's the only way to know what's really in your cosmetic bottle.
Here's a good example to help you understand:
A product contains aloe vera gel. Great! Aloe is natural, a plant known for its soothing and moisturizing properties. But aloe never comes alone. It must be stabilized. This means preservatives are added to prevent bacterial proliferation. Texture agents (gelling agents, thickeners) are also often added.
The only way to know what accompanies it is to read the INCI list to ensure that the rest of its composition is as natural and healthy as the aloe itself. If you see "Aloe vera" followed by Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, or Carbomer, you are looking at a product that contains aloe... but also several substances that may not be desirable according to your criteria (natural, gentle, non-irritating, safe, etc.). There are natural and safe preservatives, but unfortunately, it's often those that are neither natural, safe, nor ecological that are used.
What you just read about aloe applies to all water-based ingredients: fruit extracts, plant extracts, hydrosols, herbal infusions, etc. All require rigorous preservation, as water is a breeding ground for microbial contamination.
Listed in descending order of importance
According to cosmetics regulations, INCI must be listed in descending order of concentration in the product. This makes it easy to identify which ingredient is most present and which is least present. It is important to remember that the first ingredients on the list make up the majority of the product. Plants must be named in Latin, and other ingredients in English, to facilitate deciphering worldwide.
The development of a cosmetic formula is calculated as a percentage, totaling 100%. Here's an example for a moisturizing cream: water is the first ingredient on the INCI list and alone accounts for 60 to 80% of the product's total. Not that it's useless—since water hydrates the skin—but know that the price you pay for your cream is partly for water.
Then there's the oily part, which nourishes and provides nutrients, vitamins, and minerals to your skin. It represents about 10 to 20% of your cream's total. The rest of the formula should include the emulsifier (which binds the aqueous and oily phases), preservatives, and active ingredients. I say "should," because unfortunately, this is not the case for conventional cosmetics, which add many superfluous ingredients to beauty products.
For active ingredients to be effective, they should represent about 1% to 10% of the recipe. The problem is that in conventional cosmetics, there are so many ingredients useless for the skin that very little room is left for active ingredients—less than 1% in your small pot of cream. When a cream has a very long list of ingredients, the active ingredients are in such a low percentage that you can forget their benefits.
If you opt for Slow Cosmetics, the INCI ingredient list will be much shorter, as no superfluous ingredients are added to the formulas. Consequently, it is normal to see most active ingredients at the end of the list, as they generally represent 1 to 10% of the total formula.
I gave you the example of creams, but there are also lotions, toners, butters, etc. A body butter, for example, should be about 99% fats and 1% antioxidants. Nevertheless, I regularly notice that the term "body butter" is used when, in reality, the product also contains water, gums, or other ingredients to thicken the so-called butter. Since fats are expensive, these other ingredients are used to make the final product cheaper for the manufacturer. Unfortunately, it's the same "pattern" for most products.
Reading INCI empowers you
By familiarizing yourself with common ingredients, you become more autonomous. You learn to distinguish a truly minimalist product from a product with deceptive natural marketing.
The INCI list does not specify what each ingredient is for, whether they are organically or ethically grown, or whether they come from sustainable sources, but at least you can identify ingredients you wish to avoid. This is a step towards making informed choices, aligned with your values of health, transparency, and respect for your skin.
In conclusion
The one and only way to know what you're buying is to read the LABEL. Companies that sell hot air don't feel at all threatened by the contents of their products, because they know very well that most people don't read labels.
Be stronger than them. Turn around and start reading the ingredients on the label!
